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(click on thumbnails for larger image & detailed drawing)
| EDUCATION |
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E101. Decorative Veneering Starter Kit
(Video NOT included - order E102 DVD or E103 VHS)
This kit is a selected set of veneering tools, wood veneer, supplies, and educational material to get you started in the art of decorative veneering. The tools and supplies are high-end hand tools currently in use in marquetry and veneer workshops in USA and abroad. The wood selection includes burls, domestic and exotic wood which are enough to create at least four complete panels and enough practice veneer to get experience working with a variety of woods.
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E102 or E103. Video or DVD & Companion Book 'Decorative Veneering' by Paul Schürch
This is an informative, detailed, and high-quality 80 minute video/dvd on the art of Decorative Veneering by Paul Schürch. This first video/dvd covers: introduction to veneer, overview and history, ordering, storing and flattening veneer, designing with veneers and core materials, demonstrations of tools, cutting techniques and sharpening, demonstration of assembly techniques in creating a panel, the use of glues, veneer presses, sanding and finishing and a portfolio of marquetry furniture.
The companion booklet includes information from the video/dvd, as well additional information on design theory, detailed instructions, illustrations, and an extensive glossary, resource list and tool catalog. The DVD has a useful index on the menu which allows easy access to all the different chapters and tips that are covered in this instructional program, to help you in your projects.
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E105. Marquetry Starter Kit
(Video NOT included - order E106 DVD)
This Kit is a selected set of veneering tools, wood veneer, supplies, and educational material to get you started in the art of marquetry. The tools and supplies are high-end hand tools currently in use in marquetry and veneer workshops in the USA and abroad. The wood selection includes burls, domestic and exotic woods.
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E106. DVD and Companion Book on "Marquetry" by Paul Schürch.
This comprehensive video demonstrates the process of creating Marquetry. It is a project-oriented study that includes step by step instructions for creating a circular 16 piece radial match and a floral marquetry panel, start to finish.
This DVD also covers: The history of marquetry, new hand and machining techniques for working veneer, sand shading techniques, time saving tips, trouble-shooting solutions, edging details, information on glues, veneer presses, sanding, and finishing.
The marquetry furniture featured will demonstrate what is possible using the skills and techniques Paul shares with you on this DVD. The companion booklet supplied includes the cartoon drawing for the Radial Flower class project, and detailed information on how you can successfully create marquetry in your own shop.
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E121. Book: "Practical Furniture Design" by Paul Schürch.
This book is about learning the process of designing a piece of furniture that can be
original, establishing a clear approach so mistakes are minimized, fulfills the needs and desires of the client, and fits the budget. For those who are just starting out or have experience in designing furniture, it will give valuable and fresh insight on the process of practical furniture design. The 58-page design manual includes original scale drawings, lofting curves, metric conversion tables, client contracts, standard furniture dimensions and bibliography of design resources. Accompanying the book are: a 6" combined inch/metric ruler, an erasing shield and a 0.5mm mechanical pencil.
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E122. Booklet on Creating Radial Matches
This eight page booklet describes the procedure for creating the radial match (also called the sunburst, starburst or the "pizza" match). This is copied from Chapter 3 of the DVD and Book "Marquetry", and is usually sold with the radial templates, item T205.
There are drawings and various techniques described. A brief description on creating radial matches goes as follows:
The template is placed over a bundle (10,12 or 16 pieces) of veneer, and used to mark out the triangular shape. The whole stack can be cut with the veneer saw and the V-edge, and the joints cleaned up with a sanding block. It can also be used to mark and cut each leaf individually with the chisel or scalpel using the template or V-edge as a fence. Care must be taken not to cut into the template, and the template needs to be placed in the same spot leaf after leaf, so that the grain pattern will line up around the circle. The leaves would normally be laid out in a bookmatch pattern to maximize the starburst effect, or selected at an angle to create herringbone effect (see "Rope Lay Table" in portfolio image #23).
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| TOOLS |
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T201. Veneer tape dispenser
Tape not included with dispenser.
This gum tape dispenser of metal construction will take 3/4" to 3" wide gum tape which is excellent for securing veneer seams together. A manual pull and tear machine which has a brush to moisten tape (25 gram weight), and is indispensable for any shop that works with veneer.
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T205. 3 Radial templates 10x, 12x, 16x
These templates assist in selecting and cutting pie or radial sunburst patterns out of a bundle of veneer that could be used for a round, oval or half-round table. They are 22" long and made from 1/4" clear hard acrylic, for viewing and selecting the grain pattern that most enhances your project. The three templates are made for a 10 way match (36 degree angle) , a 12 way match (30 degree angle) , and a 16 way match (22.5 degree angle).
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T207. Hinged Plastic Mirrors
Two acrylic mirrors, hinged together for the purpose of viewing various potential book or radial matches on one sheet of veneer, prior to cutting all the leaves out. The ability to select the veneer according to pattern, color and graining allows one to get the most attractive results when all the leaves are joined together, which is difficult to visualize any other way. Each mirror is 6"x 16"
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T211. V-edge (saw / knifing edge 26" (above)
A 26" brass and multi-plywood straight edge for straight line knife cutting or veneer sawing. The brass is ideal for a knifing edge because it will not damage the knife blade that is riding against it, and acts like a lubricant for the hard steel. The 'knife edge' side of the V-Edge is made from brass flat bar and has a bevel milled on the outer edge. As the chisel facet or scalpel blade is run against the brass edge, one can draw the sharpened chisel tip through the veneer, and cut through with three passes. The 'sawing side' of the straight edge is brass and multiply, which gives an excellent vertical edge on which to guide the veneer saw. Ideally, a straight edge should be slightly bowed or tensioned so one can hold it down firmly on a piece of veneer with one hand, while cutting or sawing with the other hand, without the edge shifting.
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T215. V-Tong (Veneer Tweezers)
A tool for precision handling of veneer or inlay is needed for the sand shading process or decorative veneering and marquetry assembly. This particular tool I have designed is made with flexible tempered 420 stainless steel with precision ground tips, and is an asset for any shop that handles small components. The tips of the V-Tong have been engineered to easily scoop, pick up and handle small or flat objects smaller than a grain of sand (or the period in this sentence.). The tips are sharp and can also be used for cutting, parallel slicing, trimming or pairing down material, and comes with instructions for proper care and handling.
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T231. Veneer Saw &
T232. Veneer File
This type of veneer saw has always been a popular tool for veneer cutting. It is primarily used for roughing out and cutting through many layers of veneer at a time, although it can be used for fine precision straight cuts on individual layers of veneer. For this finer use of the veneer saw, it needs to be sharpened properly. The blade should be removed from the handle, and held firmly in a saw vise, clamped close to the teeth. Using a small fine knife edge triangular file held 90 degrees to the blade and canted at the same angle as the teeth, start sharpening the teeth from the front of the saw, moving toward the back teeth. Usually two light pushes with the file held steadily in the hand will be enough. After this is complete, the saw teeth need to be beveled to a point with a fine flat file. This is accomplished by securing the blade on the edge of a workbench, and flat angle filing the teeth to a point, filing on the handle side of the blade. The angle of the flat file should be about 15 to 25 degrees. Care must be taken to file the saw teeth only to a sharp point and no further. Filing too much will create a flat top on the point of the tooth, and the saw will not cut properly. After this flat filing is done , remove the burr on the saw back that rides against the straight edge with a 1000 grit waterstone, wipe the water off, oil the blade, and the saw is ready for use.
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T241. Cutting Mat
Self Healing Cutting Mats are useful for accurate and burr-free cutting of veneer. They last a very long time due to the self-healing properties. They also preserve the cutting edge of the knife or scalpel from quickly dulling unlike other cutting surfaces. Alvin 18" x 24"
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T242. Veneer Chisel (above)
This 40 mm (1 1/2") Chrome vanadium Double Cherry chisel is ideally suited for delicate veneer work. It can be used in conjunction with the V-edge for straight seam knife cuts, for free-hand cutting, for assembly of banding or 'filetti' inlay and intricate veneer inlay patterns. It is the main tool used for the cutting of veneer. The chisel is sharpened on a grinding wheel and honed on a 1000 grit flat water stone as you would a normal chisel, paying close attention to keeping the back completely flat on the stone while knocking off the burr created by honing the chisel facet. The active cutting edge needs a slight radius to cut veneer effectively and can be created by cutting through some cloth backed 100 G sandpaper or dragging the chisel edge over an MDF board. The edge needs to be honed on the water stone to re-sharpen the blunted tip. After it has been sharpened on the stone, polish the edge lightly on both sides on a felt wheel with rouge. The outer tip of the chisel that is actually cutting the veneer needs to be ever so slightly rounded by buffing both sides of the tip. The chisel will then draw properly through the veneer, without following the grain and splitting the veneer. Grasping the chisel close to the facet, cut the first pass as light as a feather, to score the veneer. This will allow the subsequent passes to follow the path you have established, and to cut through completely on the third or forth pass. The chisel can inlay, or cut one piece of veneer (scrap) into another. Place the scrap onto the veneer background, score the background using the scrap edge as a fence or guide, and finishing the cuts with the tip of the chisel. If you are working from the glue face and are cutting toward the fancy face on the background veneer, the inlay will be a perfect fit. This method can be used to remove defects in burls.
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T244. Knife handle & T245. Five knife blades
Handle and blades sold separately.
This is a stainless steel surgical scalpel handle with a high carbon steel
blade that is very useful for cutting brittle or difficult veneers. The
scalpel is mainly used with the V-Edge (straight edge) for straight line
cutting of veneer.
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T246. Tape Removing Knife
This specially sharpened and honed flexible putty knife facilitates the clean and efficient removal of gum tape after the veneer skin has been glued onto the core or foundation. First, wet the surface of the tape for one or two minutes, then push or scrape the layers of tape off the surface with the knife. Any glue residue left on the veneer from the gum tape will be removed in this way.
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T251. Brass Bristle Tape Brush
This is an extremely fine (34 gauge wire) brass brush, perfect for burnishing the moist gum tape onto the veneer, but a plastic scrub brush with cotton rag could also work. I find that the fine bristle securely massages the tape into the veneer and wicks the moisture away to some degree and lasts forever.
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T261. Dental Probe (a.k.a. G'damit)
This sharp dental probe is used to extract small pieces of veneer from a scroll saw and for piercing starter holes in packets of veneer. This facilitates the threading of the 2/0 for marquetry packet cutting. By chucking the dental probe in a drill press, you can ease a non-invasive hole through the packet of veneers, allowing the hole to be easily closed up after packet cutting is complete. The name Gdamit is loosely translated from Italian to describe what you express when accidentally grabbing the wrong end of the dental probe when fishing for it in your pocket.
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T265. Nail Nippers
This jeweler's tool is used for the clipping and removal of veneer nails that secure layers of veneer together during the scroll saw cutting process. This particular nipper can easily and safely dig out imbedded or 'clenched' nails from the packet without damaging the veneer.
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T271. Water Stone 800/4000
This stone is stored in water and is used to hone chisels and knives to a razor sharp edge. The 800 grit is for rough work, and the 4000 grit is for final honing. The abrasive is friable, meaning that it will wear with use. The paste or slurry created is what cuts the steel. The stone can be resurfaced by placing a sheet of 120 grit wet and dry sandpaper on a piece of glass, wet the paper and re-surface the stone on the paper.
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T281. Kunz 113 Circular Plane
A reproduction of Stanley's discontinued 113 with distinctive toothed side gearings. The steel sole adjusts concave to convex and is dovetailed into its cast iron body. Excellent for boat and chair building. 1-3/4" wide blade and 10-1/8" overall length.
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T291. Vacuum Press (4' x 4') with pump*
other presses available special order
This complete vacuum pump with a 49" x 49" 20 mil vinyl bag is designed for the home workshop. This unit is an affordable versatile system designed for veneering, laminating and multipurpose clamping. The pump is quiet, continuous running, developing 1750 lbs of pressing force per square ft. Included are fittings for multipurpose clamping, hoses, patch kit, air filter, owners manual, and everything needed to successfully press your project. 49" x 72" and 49" x 97" vinyl and poly bags, and industrial pumps are available upon request. Please inquire about Compact 100 shipping cost, or custom sized bags.
*Extra shipping charge on special order items and all International orders - Call for quote.
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| SUPPLIES |
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S301. Roll of water gum tape 2"
S302. Roll of water gum tape 3/4"
25 gram (non-perforated) veneer tape that has water activated hide glue is ideal for veneering. It is cut to length, moistened with a sponge or with the tape dispenser wetting system, placed over the veneer seam or joint, and smoothed or burnished down with a fine brass brush or rag to secure it firmly onto the veneer. It is used for final assembly of veneer joints in decorative veneering, in order to create a single skin or sheet of veneer. After the gum tape is applied over the joints, the assembled veneer skin gets placed between two plattens to insure that the moisture from the gum tape does not warp the veneer while drying. This complete skin will then be glued onto a foundation or core of Medex or MDF, with the gum tape side exposed. After the veneer is glued to the core with a mechanical or vacuum type veneer press, the tape is removed by moistening and peeling it off with a sharpened flexible putty knife, or sanded off the veneer with a belt, stroke or random orbital sander. The best method seems to be first 'scuff sanding' the panel with a 120 grit 4 X 24 belt sander in order to start leveling out different thickness of veneer and break through the top layer of gum tape. Next, remove the rest of the gum tape with water and a gum tape removing knife. Carefully sand the panel smooth with a 220 grit belt sander and then finish it off with a light 220 grit random orbital sander. This tape is available in rolls that are 3/4" and 2" wide, 25 gram weight and 650 ' long. Remember to wrap the moisture sensitive gum tape in a plastic bag to preserve the shelf life, while not in use.
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S311. Blue 3" masking tape
S312. Blue 3/4" masking tape
Low tack blue tape. This special masking tape is excellent for assembling veneer seams, decorative patterns and marquetry. It is used to temporarily pull together and hold the seams of the veneer together on the 'glue face' of the veneer so one can apply the gum tape onto the opposite 'show face', or exposed side of the veneer on the panel. It will not leave a residue, tear fibers or be difficult to remove, provided that it is not left out in the sun, exposed to heat, or pressed on with excessive force, for instance as in a veneer press. The 3/4" tape has the right amount of elasticity to stretch over a seam and 'draw' the joint together, and the 3" wide tape is ideal for assembling marquetry or decorative veneer work. It is removed from the 'glue face' after the gum tape has dried. (about 15 to 30 minutes). It cannot be used to hold the veneer together during the final pressing (with glue) onto the core because will be very difficult to remove from the finished veneer panel.
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S321. Twelve scroll saw blades #2/0
#2/0 - .010" thick - 26 to 30 tpi skip tooth German scroll saw blades (12 per pack) are the most durable, finest kerf, for the precise cutting of veneers in packet, or contour cutting of marquetry. They can be used to cut up to 16 layers of veneer at once in a good quality scroll saw such as an older model Powermatic or Delta Milwaukee 'spring top' scroll saw (my favorite). The Eclipse (a new type of vertical travel saw), Hegner, Excalabur, Dewalt or Delta scroll saw are my second choices. The reason that I like the older spring top saws is that the blade has a perfectly vertical travel. This allows one to precisely cut thick packets of veneer of up to 16 layers with a minimum of saw kerf width, and be assured that you can take all the interchangeable pieces of the veneer puzzle and assemble them back together again for a perfect fit. The double arm or pivoting arm system that most scrollsaws possess have the blade moving front to back in a slightly orbital fashion and usually have no blade backing guides for precise cutting, but are still quite good for marquetry if properly used. A momentary 'on/off' foot switch is very useful when using this saw for intricate cutting, changing directions of the cut, and stopping the noise when the blade brakes.
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S331. Veneer Nails (one bar = 90 nails)
These are small 23 gauge x 3/4" long headless wire nails for clench nailing or fixing veneer layers together into a sandwich type package prior to scroll saw cutting. They are nailed through the entire packet, and the nails bent over on both sides of the packet to 'clench' the layers of veneer together. 'Packet cutting' is commonly used in decorative veneering and marquetry. The small hole created in the veneer by the nail will virtually disappear after the skin is glued to the core. The Accuset micro pinner nail gun uses such nails, and is an excellent tool for production marquetry. Note that on the bar of nails there is a directional arrow shown for nailing purposes.
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S341. Veneer Flattening Solution (1 Quart)
S342. Veneer Flattening Solution (16 oz.)
The Veneer Flattening solution is used to plastisize and flatten buckled, dry and warped veneer. It is premixed with an long shelf life, and is packaged in an 16 oz pump spray bottle. The solution is lightly sprayed onto both surfaces of the veneer and set in a shady spot where air can circulate around both sides for about 20 minutes. The veneer will be pliable and can then be placed between two platens, gradually increasing weight until the veneer is flat, and left for about 8 hours. When pressing up two or more leaves, the veneer can be stacked together, flipping over every other leaf so the bumps meet the bumps and valleys meet the valleys to assist in the flattening process. The veneer then needs to be dried out by placing two sheets of absorbent paper between each leaf and pressing the veneer in a veneer press, changing out the paper every few hours until the veneer is dry. This may take up to five changes over a few days until the veneer is dry. After flattening veneer, store the veneer between platens in a 70-degree, 70% humidity area. If it is dry and warm, wrap the veneer in plastic to prevent the veneer from buckling again. The Veneer Flattening Solution should not be used more than two times on any veneer, because the glycerin may compromise gluing the veneer later.
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S351. Bushing Canvas (60" wide, sold by the lineal foot)
This canvas is well suited for pressing up different thicknesses of veneer in your press. This exceptionally heavy cotton duck-cloth is available 60 inches wide and sold by the lineal foot. The canvas can be reused continuously if it is kept free of glue. It is the best bushing material that works well for gluing up diverse veneer thicknesses found in Marquetry skins.
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S361. Camilla Oil (4 oz.) with applicator
This oil is made from the camellia flower and comes from Japan. It is fine penetrating oil for tools and metal that are prone to corrosion or rust. I have found this oil especially useful for preserving the metal in hand tools that come in contact with my hands. The applicator is a plastic reservoir with a cotton wick that is wiped over the steel surface and recapped, and the steel will be protected from rust, even in humid environments.
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| VENEER |
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V401. 100 sq.ft. Veneer Supply
A supply of veneer from 1 square foot up to 12" x 30", selected from a wide variety of domestic and exotic species of woods. Burls, straight grain, figured wood and many different types of veneer are included in this box. Each type of veneer will usually come in 4 sheets or more so you can try your hand at different matching and joining techniques, and will give you enough wood to create a variety of panels for smaller projects. It is an excellent value for decorative veneer work. At least eight species of veneer are included.
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V402. 100 sq. ft. Veneer Selection for Marquetry
A supply of 20 to 25 species of hardwood, exotics, burls, and domestic veneers. There are 2 to 6 non sequenced pieces per species ranging from 5 x 10 to 15 x 30 in size. This package will serve you well and is ideally suited for marquetry projects big and small.
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V411-413. Green Bolivar Veneer - (6" x 24" each)
This veneer is a European relative to the poplar tree, and dyed with light fast dye to accent the natural green in this wood. The green is used for leaves and stem motifs in marquetry work and will not fade like poplar. It is handled and finished like any other veneer, and comes in 24" length ranging from 6" to 10" wide.
Available in light, medium or dark green.
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V414. Natural Green Heart Poplar (12" x 24") - 2 sq/ft each
Natural Green Part of the Poplar tree, selected for the deepest green color.
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V421. Holly Veneer - Natural White
This wood is a rare find and seldom available. I have random width sheets ranging from 6 to 10" wide and cut to 24" in length. This wood is the traditional wood used in marquetry for rendering white flowers and other light colored elements in your motif. The shading characteristics are quite good and the stock I have is a healthy .023" or .6 mm thick.
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V431-434. Dyed Straight Grain Veneer - (6" - 8" width x 24" long)
These dyed woods are Castello and Koto veneers. They are used in areas where more vibrant colors are desired. They work, cut, glue, and handle just like regular non-dyed veneers. The dyes are water fast and more fade resistant than regular veneers. Call or Email us for available colors and quantities.
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V451. Dyed Birdseye Maple, Royal Blue - (6" - 8" wide x 24" long)
These dyed woods are Birdseye maple veneers. They are used in areas where more vibrant colors are desired. They work, cut, glue, and handle just like regular non-dyed veneers. The dyes are water fast and more fade resistant than regular veneers. Call or Email us for available colors and quantities.
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| ADHESIVES |
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A511-513. Liquid Urea Resin Pro-Glue (1 gallon)
A515-517. Liquid Urea Resin Pro-Glue (1/2 gallon)
(Dark, Light or Mixed Hardener Available)
This rigid bond glue is used for veneering and is a modified urea formaldehyde resin with a powdered inverse catalyst hardening agent. The two colored hardeners are designed to mix with the resin at a one packet powder to a one cup (8 oz) liquid ratio. The range can vary somewhat. Extra dark or white hardener can be special ordered, but you can alter the color of the glue by mixing the two hardeners together or by adding aniline dye into the resin prior to mixing the hardener into the resin. The temperature of the project should stay above 70 degrees F. If not, use an electric heating blanket over the project while it is curing in the press. At 75 degrees, the open face time is 25 minutes, and the glue dry in about 4 hours. Increase the temperature to 85 degrees, and the open time is 15 minutes and dry in 2 hours. Shelf life for this glue is about one year, and can be extended many years if refrigerated between uses. Do not use the glue if the resin becomes discolored or lumping is observed. A small amount of glue will bleed through the veneer while pressing, but will not affect the finishing when it is sanded off. Allow the project to air out and cure for 24 hours before scuff sanding or removing the gum tape.
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A521. Dry Urea Resin (5 lbs.)
A525. Dry Urea Resin (14 oz.)
This rigid bond glue is used for veneering and is a dry urea formaldehyde resin to be mixed with water to activate the catalyst. You can alter the color of the glue by mixing powdered pigments to darken the glue or by adding titanium dioxide to lighten the glue. Use no more than 5% by weight. The temperature of the project should stay above 70 degrees F. If not, use an electric heating blanket over the project during the press curing cycle. At 75 degrees, the open face time is 25 minutes, and the glue dry in about 6 hours completely curing after 24 hours. Increase the temperature to 85 degrees, and the open time is 15 minutes and dry in 3 hours. Shelf life for this glue is about one year, and can be extended by storing in a cool, dry place. Do not use the glue if the resin powder is clumping in its original container. A small amount of glue will bleed through the veneer while pressing, but will not affect the finishing when it is sanded off. Allow the project to air out and cure for 24 hours before scuff sanding or removing the gum tape.
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A531. Hide Glue (1 lb.)
This glue has been in use for centuries, and still preferred by craftsmen for restoration and new work. This 192-gram weight hide glue is formulated for veneering and has the advantage of being reversible, or repairable if the veneer surface is ever damaged. It is mixed 50% with water, melted in a double boiler at 140 degrees, and cleaned up with water. I prefer to spread the glue onto the core, apply the veneer after a few minutes, and then press the veneer tight onto the core using a heated metal platen.
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A few points to remember:
Always cut the veneer and inlays from the glue side of the skin toward the show face. The V shaped cuts created by the knives will be toward the core, and the clean tight joints will be visible. You can fill gaps and big open joints from the back with slivers of veneer, or glue and sawdust. Differing thickness of veneer can be compensated for by placing a layer of visqueen and canvas over the veneer during glue up in the press. Urea formaldehyde is excellent for veneering. PVAs work well but are not my first choice due to the flexibility of the joint. Gaps can be filled after the glue up with Famowood putty, and one can use any number of finishes such as lacquer, oil, shellac, or varnish that will look good, depending on the final use of the veneer work. You will be very surprised at how easy it is to create professional looking results.
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